Mas Managua

I had just settled back into San Juan del Sur, but couldn't resist when an opportunity came up to travel around the country for a few days. In Managua again I had the chance to meet with Ramon Meneses, a Sandanista veteran of the '79 revolution. Like many who fought to liberate Nicaragua, he has become disillusioned with the direction that the country has taken and with current president Daniel Ortega. In response, Ramon has joined a new political party, the Sandinista Renovation Movement, in hopes of reviving the original ideals of the revolution. His opinion echoed what I have heard from several others, that president Ortega is more concerned with maintaining himself in power than with the best interests of the public.

Among other oddities, Ortega has formed a bizarre partnership with his main political rival, Alberto Aleman of the Liberal Party, a past president imprisoned for corruption and theft but then inexplicably freed by Ortega. The constitution currently forbids a president from serving two consecutive terms and it is suspected that Ortega has made a back room deal with Aleman to alternate the office between them. Since Aleman is wanted in several countries and would be arrested if he were ever to leave Nicaragua, his freedom is dependent upon Ortega's good will and presumably he will do whatever he is told, even if he is returned to office. This must just be a back up plan, since Ortega is trying to have the constitution changed to eliminate the one term limit. If he gets his way, it is possible the presidency could turn into an Ortega dynasty, as Daniel is said to be grooming his sons to succeed him.

In the meantime, corruption deepens and Ortega keeps thumbing his nose at the US by flaunting his friendships with Fidel Castro and Hugo Chavez. Venezuela supplies Nicaragua with oil and financial aid, however, the government here will not disclose how much cash they receive or where it goes, leading to suspicions that the money is finding its way into certain Swiss bank accounts.

The newest political wrinkle is Ortega's move to have all candidates for the FSLN (Sandanistas) chosen by him rather than through nominations by the party rank and file. If he gets his way, Ortega will maintain the illusion of democracy without the inconvenience of actual responsibility to the electorate.

From Managua we traveled on to Volcan Masaya, where you can drive a car up to the crater rim of this active volcano. Sulfurous gases and smoke rise out of the crater and it has been known to occasionally expel Volkswagen sized chunks of molten rock. Warning signs direct visitors to park their cars pointing downhill in case a quick escape becomes necessary and that spending more than twenty minutes at the crater may risk them being overcome by the fumes. In safety obsessed North America, no one would be permitted within kilometres of such a site.

After another day of touring through the villages and countryside it was back to San Juan for a new week of Spanish classes.